The hike to Choquequirao ruins dazzles visitors with art adorned terraces, quaint mountain villages, and empty Inca ruins. “Machu Picchu without the crowds” could be this citadel city’s slogan.
Only 70% uncovered, it offers enough stunning stone work to make your childhood archaeologist dreams come true while still holding mystery.
Fewer people make the four to five day trek but that doesn’t make it less spectacular. If you’re moderately fit, don’t mind camping, and have a few spare days near Cusco – add one more wonder to your itinerary.
From the route to the ruins, you’ll experience local life and views that you’ll need photos to believe afterwards.
You can also take the Choquequirao Inca trail all the way to Machu Picchu, which takes between nine and 11 days.
Why visit Choquequirao ruins?
To be alone in Inca ruins
Do your visions of visiting long lost ruins involve crowds of selfie-stick wielding tours?
You have to be wanting to trek for a few days, which means only a certain crowd reaches here. Those who do are rewarded with plenty of time alone to explore and discover the ruins. You can wander leisurely to the Waterfall Terraces (aptly named for the waterfall beside them), shrine rooms, and grand plaza snapping unforgettable photos.
Also, you won’t have a designated check in, check out time, and can have a picnic right on site, unlike at Machu Picchu.
Infamous Llama Terraces
Inca terraces are iconic, what could possibly make them better? Llamas! 24 white stone llamas adorn the grey stone walls in one sector in Choquequirao.
Why are they infamous? Conspiracy theorists point out that the Inca rarely decorated their constructions in this way. Yet, you’ll find people and flower imagery embedded in the walls at other sites, such as Sacsayhuaman near Cusco.
Tip: Go all the way down to the bottom of the left side of the terraces. There’s a small platform there where you’ll get a view of the whole herd.
Meet the Andean People
Entrepreneurs have set up along the trail as tourism treks their way. This hike is a fantastic way to meet every-day Andean people and support local business.
You can try the Inca’s drink of choice, chicha, a fermented corn alcohol. Or, you can restock on chocolate and electrolyte beverages. Some shops even offer full lunch menus.
If you’re going without a tour, you can camp or sleep in a small hostel in the Marampata village before the archaeological park. Imagine living like a local, waking up to chickens cawing as morning life begins in the high Andes.
Views views views
Photographers should bring extra memory cards. From the route to the ruins, you’ll see glaciers, cactus lined desert trails, crystal clear rivers, waterfalls, idyllic mountain towns, and the sea of Andes mountains. All this comes before you even reach the gigantic Choquequirao ruins.
Tip: Shoot the sky at night. On clear nights, there’s no better place to view the Milky Way then sheltered from city lights in the mountains. I shot at f/3.2, ISO 3200, 13’. Set your camera to the lowest f stop and practice.
Camp in an Inca ruin
Slumber party in the middle of a world wonder? Fall asleep amidst ruins and you’ll wake up unsure if you’re still dreaming.
Have morning coffee with the ghosts of the Inca and watch the sunset where they would have.
You certainly can’t do this at Machu Picchu.
Bonus: It’s an incredible workout
If you’re moderately fit, you can make the hike at a casual pace. Especially if you opt for a tour with mules to take your gear. Not only is there over 1,000 metre ascents in both directions, but trekking around the ruins, up and down both sides, will keep your heart rate up.
You’ll never lack motivation with the constant wonders that wait around each corner.
Whether or not you’re going to Machu Picchu, Choquequirao is its own beautiful experience. Add it to your list and you’ll be talking about it for years…
“Remember those stone llamas?”
Trek Tips:
- If you’ve just arrived at elevation, spend at least three days leisurely exploring around Cusco (there are ruins and culture and food and shopping all nearby) before hiking at altitude. No matter how fit or young or experienced you are, altitude affects each person individually.
- I recommend staying an extra full day to explore the Choquequirao ruins. They are extensive and if you arrive exhausted, you may not get a chance to see or fully enjoy this world wonder. The llama terraces alone are hundreds of metres down the far side.
- Go now before the Peruvian government completes the highway and gondola project to the ruins. That way you won’t need to compete with crowds.
Pack In:
- Bug spray and long light clothing: The bugs can be relentless.
- Water filters: There’s plenty of water on route and it’s always safer to sterilise it.
- Sunscreen, hat, and sunglasses: The route is very exposed and UV at elevation is stronger.
- Cash in small denominations: As in many places in Peru, the route is cash only and no one will have change for larger bills (over 10 pesos, if that). Bring enough for your ticket, camping, and extra for food/drinks.
More information:
Contact FrontierLab Tours for insider details. .
I personally wanted to do the trek without a tour, but they provided incredible local information.
