“You can hike Choquequirao to Machu Picchu by yourself?” Yes. If you’re fit, have trekking experience, and enjoy freedom in the mountains, this trek is incredible without a tour.
You won’t be alone either (although please bring a partner). Waterfalls, glaciers, lonely Inca ruins, cloud forest, a 4,800 metre pass, and the Andean people will accompany you on this nine to 11 day hike.
Backpack weight isn’t a big issue despite this being a multi-day hike. You’ll pass through scenic mountain villages that sell food, so you won’t need to carry as much. If you’re still concerned about a hefty bag, you can hire muleteers (arrieros) in Cachora to accompany you and carry your belongings.
If you’re going without a tour, get a guidebook! We used Inca Trail: Cusco and Machu Picchu by Alexander Stewart. “Alex” became our third wheel and unofficial best friend. He outlined the amazement and challenges each day, and where to find water in detail.
If you aren’t paying for a tour, a guidebook is worth every penny.
That said, this is how my friend Lou and I hiked from Choquequirao to Machu Picchu for her 25th birthday.
Day 1: (Cusco to) Cachora to Choquequirao Park Trail Head to Santa Rosa campground
Begin in Cusco and enter Choquequirao from Cachora.
You’ll grab a collectivo (van taxi) to Cachora, and then a cab or moto from there to arrive at the trail head. You can also hike to the trail head from Cachora but it’s a full day hike along a thin, precarious mountain road with traffic.
After the Choquequirao Archaeological Park sign, the trail winds steeply down, through a burnt forest into a desert valley. From the raw legs of returning hikers, we got an idea of how bad the sandflies were below. Bug spray is a lifesaver.
The steep descent leads to a beach campground beside the river.
Tip: Try not to camp by the river.
The flies are relentless and it makes the next steep uphill path longer in the morning (and you want all your energy when you arrive at Choquequirao).
I did stay here by accident and the bugs were ravenous.
Other campsites await a couple hundred metres up the other side of the river.
Day 2: Santa Rosa campsite to Choquequirao
This is what our guidebook described as “possibly the hardest day on the trek.” Imagine unending, steep switchbacks, exposed in the sun and dry mountain air. Along the route you’ll find a few shops to refuel basic needs (chocolate, drinks, and possibly pasta).
At the top, you’ll first encounter Marampata village. This idyllic mountain town has more services, you can even stay at a hostel there.
Once you reach the Choquequirao Park entrance, it’s still another 40 minutes to the campsites (within the ruins!). Stop here to check in, pay the park fee, and the rangers will give you information on the park.
As you walk to the campsite, stop for photos of the gigantic terraces cascading down the mountain side with the waterfalls.
Day 3: Choquequirao ruins
Take a whole day (or two) to explore these incredible ruins. Until the Peruvian government completes the highway/gondola project to reach here, you’ll have them nearly to yourself.
The ruins are only about 30% uncovered, so there’s still more mystery awaiting. Don’t worry, there are extensive sections to explore.
Choquequirao was once a citadel, guarding passage along the Apurimac river. It sits saddled over a mountain ridge (like Machu Picchu).
The city has three tiers. The top holds the food storage areas, the middle includes a giant enclosed observation platform, and the buildings on the last tier served religious purposes.
Expansive sets of terraces flank one side of the ruins, while the other holds Choquequirao’s most famous feature – terraces decorated with 24 white stone llamas!
If you love llamas, you’ll love these ruins.
24 white stone llamas adorn terraces a few hundred metres down the far side.
Tip: Go all the way down to the bottom of the llama terraces to see the full herd.
Day 4: Choquequirao to Maizal
You could spend another day exploring Choquequirao. If not, follow the path behind the campsite to the right. You’ll walk through beautiful cloud forest until you pass over the mountain.
As you descend the other side, there’s an incredible chalice shaped set of terraces, which include a functioning water shrine. Fill up your bottles and (always) sterilise the water.
Eventually you’ll pass a campsite with a giant X marks the spot for helicopters. You’ll arrive at another desert riverbed, and this one is full of boulders. There is a bridge to cross the river if you follow it downstream.
The river is an excellent place to cool off and replenish water.
Also, how often can you skinny dip in the Andes?
The next ascent is brutal, steep switchbacks until you reach farmland.
Maizal is a tiny community with only a few houses. The senora and senor here have some provisions, water, a shower, and you can even barter with them for dinner and breakfast.
You’ll camp on their farm with the sheep and an echoing glacier in the distance.
This was my favourite camping place.
Tip: If you spend an extra day at Maizal there are a few sets of ruins nearby. One is a tiny terrace and watch tower, the other is an Inca village.
Day 5: Maizal to Yanama
This was one of the easiest days on the trek.
You’ll ascend the path through cloud forest. Beautiful succulents and strange, Dr. Seussical plants line the trails. On route, there are a few old mining shafts to explore. The terrain changes to grassland then rubble.
After the mountain pass, you’ll be in a stunning pasture with wildflowers and glacier view if the clouds behave.
You can now look down and see the rural town of Yanama.
When you arrive, several home owners may proposition you to camp in their fields. Our host even made us a fresh-off-it’s-feet chicken dinner.
Here there is water, showers, bathrooms, and a couple of stores ( in people’s homes). You can purchase snacks, small meals, and BEER.
Day 6: Yanama to Totora (aka the Pass day)
The most beautiful day on the trek is also the hardest for altitude.
Ahead awaits the highest point on the route: a nearly 4,800 metre pass. Fill your water bottles, today there is less water on route. Perhaps, buy an electrolyte drink.
Chew coca leaves to help with the altitude.
You’ll hike out of Yanama into a valley filled with old stone walls. A huge glacier and ice fields awaits in the adjoining valley to the left. If you see water along the trail, fill up as it will become scarse on the pass and beyond.
As you make your way up the pass, you’ll become more and more speechless from the views and altitude.
Keep an eye to the skies for condors. You’re now in their domain.
After the pass, the trail follows the gravel road down to Totora sometimes cutting the switchbacks through fields.
Tip: If you don’t want to hike the pass or the route down, you can ask around town for a ride or hitchhike if any vehicles are going across.
When you reach the Totora, there is a bridge that cars use to cross the river (when we were there one was washed out, keep looking there’s another). There are also some trees bridging the water: I don’t recommend this passage.
Totora is bigger than Yanama, and you’ll be able to camp in most people’s yards (for a fee). Showers, washrooms, and food/meals for purchase are available if you ask around.
Day 7: Totora to Lucmabamba
Welcome back to civilization. Today, you’ll cross the Salkantay trail and get a view of the Salkantay glacier. The trail winds through fields and even into a granadilla (sweet passionfruit) orchard.
Definitely, purchase a few from the farm. You crack them open like eggs and slurp out the juicy seeds.
You’ll walk a thin cliff-cut pass that an impressive 300 foot waterfall cuts in half.
There is plenty of water on route and some shops along the way.
La Playa is the first big town you’ll reach. Here, you’ll encounter cars, bars, hotels, and campgrounds.
You’ll have no lack of services and shops. If you continue through La Playa, you’ll reach its suburb of Lucmabamba. If you camp here, you’ll have a shorter hiking day tomorrow and can enjoy more time at the ruins.
Day 8: Lucmabamba to Llactapata
Don’t have your morning coffee! On the route today, at the base of Llactapata hill you’ll encounter coffee plants under the canopy of trees.
There’s a coffee coop here that supports local farmers and the coffee is divine (says this java snob). Stop at the shop, grab a cup (they also have tea) and sample local honey as well.
On Llactapata hill you’ll find the most intact section of Inca trail. You’ll notice stairs and rectangular cut stones helping you along the way.
Climb the hill which has several springs, waterfalls, and lots of butterflies to entertain you.
Tonight, you’ll camp overlooking Machu Picchu.
At the top of the hill, you’ll see the world wonder saddled across a hill in the distance. It’s very organic, and at first just looks like a rocky ridge.
There’s a campsite here at the top and one down the other side, past the Llactapata ruins.
Personally, I felt the view from the top campground was unbeatable. Also, our host made us a fire at night as we watched the sun set on Machu Picchu. Here, there is water and toilets.
Take some time to explore the newly uncovered ruins of Llactapata and marvel at its alignment with Machu Picchu. I loved the Tomb Raider feeling of the stone walls still half eaten by nature.
Tip: Beside the second campground there is a restaurant with services and food. Get a beer (or tea/cola) overlooking Machu Picchu! We saw a double rainbow and condor over the ruins while sipping a cold one.
Day 9: Llactapata to Aguas Calientes
Wake up and unzip your tent to sunrise over Machu Picchu.
The hike down Llactapata isn’t very long and you can have (second) breakfast and juice at the many small restaurants towards the bottom.
Follow the trail across a bridge. There’s a big waterfall high up on the next hill. Follow the path until you reach Hidroelectrica (Hydroelectric dam). You’ll now arrive at the train tracks.
You can opt to purchase a train ticket (they are expensive and have limited availability here).
If you choose to walk, here you’ll find many shops and services at the train station (even full restaurants) and along the tracks. The tracks have created a tiny train town.
You’ll walk slightly uphill for eleven kilometres, dodging trains, until you reach Aguas Calientes.
Welcome to Inca Land. Aguas Calientes is full of tourists, cheesy statues, and high prices.
Tips:
- Get your Machu Picchu tickets and bus tickets to the ruins asap. You choose morning or afternoon to enter and only have six hours access.
- Take the bus up to Machu Picchu. You can hike, but the “trail” is a staircase that cuts dangerously across the bus route.
- If you can, buy tickets to Huayna Picchu and Machu Picchu Mountain months in advance. We went in September and they were sold out until February of the next year. Some tour companies may have tickets to these destinations if you join their groups in Aguas Calientes.
Day 10: Machu Picchu
Get up early, the first buses may leave at 6:30am but we were waiting from 4:15am in a huge lineup.
Use the washroom outside the Machu Picchu gates, you won’t be able to inside and you aren’t allowed to leave and return once you enter. This is your chance to pee.
There are some independent guides selling guided tours at the main gates, many are Inca experts and fluent in multiple languages. See if one fits your needs or maybe tag along with a few other people to lower the price. I found the prices quite reasonable.
Enjoy the wonder. If you can, start at the Inca Sungate at the top left and descend down upon a complete view of Machu Picchu, just as the Inca would have. This was once the main entrance.
Check out the Inca bridge, the secret entrance to Machu Picchu on the far side of the hill. It’s an impressive sight: a path cut into the side of a cliff with a 580 metre drop.
If you save the main plaza and ruins for last, many tour groups will have cleared the area. The crowds typically thin a bit as your time slot nears its end (people get tired after a few hours and have to pee).
Tip: Watch the flow of the tour groups and you’ll often be able to move into a space as they clear it.
As you leave the ruins, the restaurant overlooking Huayna Picchu is actually quite reasonably priced (I was shocked). We grabbed Pisco Sours and sent “Cheers” and gratitude to the Inca Trail.
This is by no means a complete guide and sometimes the trail can be a little tricky to navigate. I cannot praise the use of a good guidebook enough.
What to do now?
- Soak your aching body. Santa Theresa hot springs are nearby. You’ll have to make your way out of Aguas Calientes either by train or tracks. Then, catch a van taxi direct or via a nearby town.
- Go to the Sacred Valley where more incredibly impressive Inca and pre-Inca ruins await.
- Go back to Cusco for some craft beer and culture.
Trek Tips:
- You can hire local arrieros (mule guides) yourself in Cachora to cart your belongings.
- If you’ve just arrived at elevation, spend at least three days leisurely exploring around Cusco (ruins and culture and food and shopping exist nearby) before hiking at altitude. No matter how fit or young or experienced you are, altitude affects each person individually.
- I recommend staying an extra full day to explore the Choquequirao ruins. They are extensive and if you arrive exhausted, you may not get a chance to see or fully enjoy this world wonder. The llama terraces alone are hundreds of metres down the far side.
- Go to Choquequirao now before the Peruvian government completes the highway and gondola project to the ruins. That way you won’t need to compete with crowds.
Pack In:
- Bug spray and long light clothing: The bugs can be relentless.
- Water filters: There’s plenty of water on route and it’s always safer to sterilise it.
- Food for at least three days.
- Water sanitation system. There is a lot of delicious water on route, but with the farmlands nearby you’d better treat it before consuming it.
- Sunscreen, hat, and sunglasses: The route is very exposed and UV at elevation is stronger.
- Cash in small denominations: As in many places in Peru, the route is cash only and no one will have change for larger bills (over 10 pesos, if that). Bring enough for your Choquequirao ticket, camping, and extra for food/drinks. There are ATMs in Aguas Calientes to withdraw cash for your Machu Picchu ticket.
- Coca leaves are a saviour on the trail. They help you feel more balanced at altitude and have effects similar to caffeine. They are NOT cocaine.
- Your chargers for camera batteries and phone, there will be electricity along the route. A portable battery charger is always a good idea, just in case.
- Something nice (and light) to wear at Machu Picchu: You came this far for photos.
- Some phrases in Spanish and Quechua. You won’t find many local people speaking English, but communicating with hand gestures and a phrase book will be met with kindness.
Excited to hit the Choquequirao Inca trail? More photos and information:
Hiking Choquequirao to Machu Picchu (My complete play-by-play experience)
